Newquay to Perranporth Looks like a beautiful day, doesn't it? But, looks can be deceiving. It all started with sleet...   ...and continued on with freezing Arctic winds that made placid waters froth and surge and rip right through me. I could have crossed The Gannell via the Penpol - a footbridge that's only revealed … Continue reading SWCP Day 16 – 25 April 2017

Treyarnon to Newquay To this point, I'd had some enormously satisfying experiences on the the swcp, and seen some incredibly beautiful sights. But this day was far and away my favourite. Here's why...   [Surge stats: 18.75 km, 152 floors, 29440 steps]

Tintagel to Treyarnon Having stayed two nights at Tintagel, I had to make up some geography, so I caught a bus close to Rock, then the ferry across to Padstow, where - thanks to the lovely couple sitting opposite me in the ferry - I learned Rick Stein had his flagship The Seafood Restaurant. Having … Continue reading SWCP Day 14 – 23 April 2017

Tintagel A day of rest, and the emergence of Plan B... In the preceding week it had become blatantly obvious that in order to traverse the whole SWCP I would have to either bus it on average every third day, pay to have luggage transfers the entire way, or spend two months being a cranky-sore-exhausted Pen. … Continue reading SWCP Day 13 – 22 April 2017

Tresmorn to Tintagel I love B&B's, but they're awkward to stay at when then are no other guests. Having stared at my own reflection the evening before whilst enjoying a lovely three-course dinner, I was loathe to repeat the performance over breakfast. So I charmed my host into joining me over coffee at the tail … Continue reading SWCP Day 12 – 21 April 2017

Bude to Tresmorn I really liked Bude. It had a relaxed, beachy, artsy (but not toffee-nosed) vibe. I could have happily stayed there a few days to explore and to write and to enjoy the many groovy-looking coffee shops. But, alas, a day off was not to be. I had miles to cover, and a … Continue reading SWCP Day 11 – 20 April 2017

Hartland Quay to Bude Remember the 'contemplating man' from day 9? He and his father walked one year from Hartland Quay to Bude. He said they found it very challenging, and that it took a lot longer than expected. I wasn't surprised. The SWCP Association have slogged the stage with a 'severe' rating, and, having … Continue reading SWCP Day 10 – 19 April 2017

lovelly to Hartland Quay A massive sleep last night. I set the alarm for a 9 hour sleep, then rolled over and got another hour. Guess I needed it. The Finnish Trio became a duo, leaving one behind in Clovelly to rest and enjoy a cream tea while the other two charged ahead on a half day … Continue reading SWCP Day 9 – 18 April 2017

Westward Ho! to Clovelly I bonded with three Finnish ladies in the mudroom of the Culloden House B&B, while we all tightened our boots before setting off for the long walk to Clovelly. First out of the docks, I took a fancy to the tiny beach houses set inexplicably half-way up Kipling Tors - the headland … Continue reading SWCP Day 8 – 17 April 2017

Barnstaple to Westward Ho! How often can you start the day with a bubble bath? It screams DAY OFF! Don't you think? Having fallen into a double-decker sleep, I woke with stiff limbs and the kind of lassitude that deserves a good wallow in bed, or a deep, bubbly bath. Guess which one I chose? … Continue reading SWCP Day 7 – 16 April 2017