Bigbury-on-Sea – Salcombe
The awesomeness of my B&B hosts continued when Tony drove me around the Avon River estuary to Bantham. Not the Shakespeare (Stratford) version of the Avon – this is Devon’s Avon. The summer ferry at the mouth of the Avon had stopped for the year and there was no local bus, so I was forced to get creative and beg a lift.
Thanks Tony.
From Bantham the first section of the path starts out pretty easy. Out of low dunes it rose into pasture, around the Thurlestone golf course, down to wetlands, and ends at the sweet little sister towns of Outer and Inner Hope. (Strangely, the locals didn’t laugh when I joked that they’re just like belly buttons. Go figure.)
Part of me was celebrating feeling about 10% better than yesterday. As it turns out, that 10% was squarely situated in my stomach which was suddenly ravenous. The timing of said ravenousness coincided with both my arrival in Outer Hope and the arrival of rain. All of which pointed toward lunch.
The pub was open, but I set my sights on a bustling cafe and was rewarded with deliciousness in a bowl. Mmmm…
An hour later I geared up for wet weather and strode out with The Beast strapped on, ready for whatever the path had to throw at me. What followed was a truly stunning stretch of path. I’d love to walk it again in sunshine and when I’m not feeling like death warmed over. Here’s a bunch of pics from Bolt Tail to Bolt Head:
Turning the corner at Bolt Head, I came across Starehole Bay, where the colour of the water below changed from a stormy blue/grey to a beautiful greenish turquoise. I guess the sea was much shallower there, but it really was an uncanny change. The rain finally stopped here too.
The headland at the far end of this little bay is called Sharp Tor. All I can say is it suits its moniker.
Ahead of me was the final few km stretch up past The Bar and into Salcombe Harbour, but, with energy levels running low, it was a slog.
I watched boats returning to Salcombe and wished I had some kind of engine to propel me too.
My pics dont really do the place justice, but navigating the roadside path through South Sands and North Sands meant some uncomfortably steep climbs with tired muscles and irritable lungs.
By the time I made it into Salcombe proper and up the hill (of course!) to my B&B, there was no way I was moving again before morning. Tea and bikkies supplied by my hosts would have to suffice for dinner.
Stats: 30162 steps; 194 floors; 20.93 km
PenLoper 